100 Mile Diet: Food for Thought

Tumbledown's summer reading list had a lot to do with eating. It began with Barbara Kingsolver's recounting of her family's year of eating locally (with help in the telling from her husband Steven L. Hopp and daughter Camille Kingsolver). The strength and also the weakness of the book was ease of reading. The access point for entry was the lowest common denominator of mass market appeal. But that also makes for good summer beach reading. (Not that Tumbledown went to the beach this summer, and had he gone, this book would have compounded his sense of guilt for having used the fuel and for having eaten his share of industrial fast food along the way.)

Kingsolver recounts what is becoming a popular and oft repeated experiment in eating (living, really), in which a person or couple or family decides to feed themselves food "from so close to home, we'd know the person who grew it." (p. 10) The recipes for that year-long experiment, many of which can be had for free at the Animal, Vegetable, Miracle web site, are worth the price of the book. (Also available at that site is an index of non-Kingsolver web sites and other online resources, many of which are also listed in the various chapters of the book.) Tumbledown's family especially appreciates the new "Friday night pizza" ritual that grew out of the chapter entitled "Six Impossible Things Before Breakfast." We are now imitating Kingsolver's example--and the fun of gathering the family around the table to put together our two 12" masterpieces of gustatory delight has become a weekly event likely to be repeated every week until the children leave the nest. The ingredients for our pizza toppings come fresh from the garden on the day we eat them, washed and chopped minutes before they hit the crust. The children see the journey from garden to mouth and participate fully along the way. Thanks to Kingsolver for the recipe and the suggestion that "family night" include food preparation and conversation about the sources of what we put in our mouths.

The final criticism, if indeed that is what it is, would be that sometimes the book comes across as "preachy." But that too is OK in a sermon, even one about the evils of Concentrated Animal Feeding Operations (CAFOs, where animals are confined in feedlots), the fuel cost of transporting food across the nation and across the world, and the broken economics of farming.



If Kingsolver's book is preachy, Pollan's book, The Omnivore's Dilemma, is pedantic ("teachy" in the monotone professorial sense) and inflammatory (referring in part to his attention-grabbing accusation that McDonald's McNuggets have as an ingredient tertiary butylhydroquinone (TBHQ), "a form of butane (i.e., lighter fluid)" (p. 187). Subtitled " A Natural History of Four Meals," the book is a Jeremiad (OK, he does sermonize) against monocrop corn and soybeans and (you guessed it) CAFOs. The four meals are 1) Industrial Food, 2) Pastoral Food: Whole Foods / Big Organic, 3) Pastoral Food: Small Organic, diversified and local, 4) Personal: Hunter / Gatherer. Many of the same concerns that animate Kingsolver's experiment also inform Pollan's work, which was published a year before Kingsolver's. And Pollan, for all his story-telling ability, also likes to pack the chapters with data and citations. Pollan's telling of the history of the organic movement and description of the differences between the new "industrial organic" and the more sustainable organic of smaller farms is a tribute to good research and writing. And the basic premise, the "omnivore's dilemma" about what to eat (because an omnivore cannot eat just the leaves of a eucalyptus) is robust enough to bear the explanatory weight of the book. Overall, very well done, despite some well-publicized controversy over some of the data. (But in a book that seeks to influence as well as inform, the overreaching of a datum or two is to be expected.)



Another book that partakes of what Pollan calls an "edible conceit" (an artificial set of rules for eating--a hyper-cultivation of a convention--for the sake of the art, in this case a book, and that moves well beyond what the author would naturally do), is the book Plenty: One Man, One Woman, and a Raucous Year of Eating Locally. It too tells the story of a year-long experiment in eating by one couple. Smith and MacKinnon's one "ironclad" rule was that "every product we bought had to come from within 100 miles." The point of the conceit, then, was "to explore, and explore deeply, the idea of local eating." (pp. 10-11) Unlike Kingsolver's and Pollan's books, which are experiments that feature the culture and foods of the Midwest and Southeast, Smith and MacKinnon's "local"-ity is foreign to Tumbledown. They live on the West Coast, the Pacific coast, west of the Cascades, in a land of mild winters and lots of rain. For that reason, the book was of interest conceptually, but hardly as informative for purposes of imitation. Still, it was an inspiration to read the story of this "conceit" and contemplate such a journey for ourselves. Just where would a family in Indianapolis draw the line on buying local food? In the flat Midwest corn belt, is local the Ohio border? (100 miles) Chicago? (200 miles) or Des Moines? (500 miles) ...or could it be that the circle around Indianapolis could be drawn more closely?

Why bother? That's the question asked once again toward the end of Plenty. The answer, in part, is the same in each of the above-mentioned books, because the average food item travels 1500 miles from farm to plate in North America. And, as Pollan says, along the way, it "has come to require a ramarkable amount of expert help" to determine where its origins are. "How did we ever get to a point," Pollan asks, "where we need investigative journalists to tell us where our food comes from...?" How indeed?



If you and your family are thinking of embarking on one of these "edible conceits," Tumbledown thinks you'll need a new cookbook for eating what's fresh and local when it is in season. (Don't look for fresh raspberries in Indianapolis in December!) The best one Tumbledown has seen is Simply in Season. It is a sequel to the much-loved More-with Less, and now comes with a study guide. (What's a conceit if you cannot study what you eat? ...that's the point, right?) The sections are arranged (you guessed it) by what is fresh in season (or, in winter, what is available because it has been canned, frozen, or otherwise locally procured and preserved).